New York City cabs…and their drivers

After a glorious 8 days in Stockholm – spent with John’s family and my mom who visited from Namibia – we are happy to be home, even if it is slightly jet-lagged, exhausted and still trying to motivate ourselves into some sort of ‘spring-cleaning’ action before the new year hits us. I’ll upload some photos from our cold Scandinavian holiday, which included a visit to the ice bar, the opera and chopping down our own Christmas tree, but wanted to share our leaving and arriving trips with you first.

On Friday the 19th, New York had the biggest snow storm of the season. Just our luck, right? More than 300 flights out of the three airports around us were canceled and as you can imagine, the roads were such a mess. John had left me in the lobby of our apartment building while he ran to the street to hail a cab. Now here’s a couple of facts about taking a cab to the airport from Manhattan. There’s a set fee ($45 plus a $5 toll fee – this excludes your tip, of course) and no cabbie is allowed to refuse to take you to the airport. The first available cabbie John managed to pull over tried to negotiate a higher rate on the trip and when John refused, he grunted and pulled up in front of our building. John and I heaved our bags (laden with Christmas gifts for the entire world, it seemed) into the trunk before flinging our snow-sodden selves onto the backseat. The cabbie pulled away and by the time we got to the next avenue (about a 2-minute drive) he had already complained about having to drive out to the airport about 10 times. Then his light-bulb went on! He couldn’t take us as he’d definitely not be back in time for his shift change. He would have to pay a $25 fine. With a snowy-screech he pulled over and told us to get out. Now let me just state the obvious. The roads were covered with snow. Covered. Cars were driving buy, splashing sloshy snow up onto the sidewalks. I was pissed off. John removed one of our bags from the trunk, plopping it into the snow while trying to stay out of the way of a bus that was veering towards us. Before we could remove the other two bags, the cabbie pulled off! ‘Get that cab!’ John yelled and I started running after it.
Two streets later, me chasing a cab and in return being chased by an oversized bus, the cabbie realized his ‘mistake’ (did he really think I was going to let him get away with my suitcase in his trunk?) and stopped. He got out of the car and started pulling our second case from the trunk, dumping it in a puddle of slush, with me yelling at him. He was about to pull the suit-bag from the car when the lid of the trunk came down on his nose with a loud thunk. ‘Serves you right’, I thought. Karma is a bitch.
By this time John had managed to half pull, half carry our first bag through the snow to where the cabbie and I were in a stare-off and in the next instant we were stranded in the middle of Central Park West Avenue, with sodden suitcases, in the way of oncoming busses and with snow everywhere. Not impressed. We finally managed to flag a kind woman cab driver who took us to the airport, driving like an expert, and we got to our flight just in time.
On our way back on Sunday evening, our cabbie was way less aggressive. In fact, he was so passive that he kept falling asleep! I could see his eyes in the rearview mirror and kept coughing loudly, making banging sounds, anything I could think of to keep him awake! We finally made it back in one piece and my once unwavering trust in this city’s cab drivers have been dealt a little knock. I think I might have to skip the subway in lieu of a cab for the next couple of weeks, just to rebuild my confidence!

Giving back – even if it is only 35c!

Ever since I left South Africa to come to the US I’ve always wondered about the best way to ‘give back’ something to help alleviate the tremendous poverty back home. There are dozens of charities, all screaming for your money, but I recently came across ‘The Lunchbox Fund’. This South African charity organization is run from the US and it helps children across SA by feeding them at their schools. They provide kids with peanut butter and jelly sandwiches as well as a piece of fruit, and as we know, this constitutes a full meal for many of the poor kids out in the squatter camps.

http://www.thelunchboxfund.org/

Those of you who are lucky enough to have been to my beautiful country know of the terrible conditions that the majority of people live in – the poverty is so destructive that it’s hard to imagine – it makes the New York bum’s life look utterly luxurious. Kids often end up looking after their brothers and sisters when their parents die (or abandon them) and it is thus hard to imagine that you’d place education high on your list when it’s mostly about survival. By offering meals at schools, The Lunchbox Fund helps by getting kids to come to school – even if it is just for that one meal a day. For 35c (that’s 15 pence in the UK or R3.50 in South Africa) you can make a difference! (And the fact that it’s tax deductible makes a nice incentive for us to give, I’m sure you’ll agree!). Hope you’ll join me in passing a couple of dollars/pounds/crowns/yeng/rands their way – after all, the best part about the silly season is being able to show you care.

New York Snow (Blizzard!)

I’m still very much ‘African’ in my way when it comes to snow – I get giddy and super excited at the appearance of those first flurries and while everyone else hunkers down into their coats and open up their black umbrellas to shield themselves from it, I love it! There’s nothing that feels like a snow flurry on your finger and the softness with which it lands in your hair… Yet there’s a certain cold sting to getting one right in the eyeball too!

And the snow lends a softness to Manhattan that I love. It makes this harsh, loud city seem somewhat more genteel, a little less in-your-face and just a decibel or so…quieter.

The first snowflakes came down around lunch time yesterday and it literally looked as though our office building was in a ‘snow dome’ – flurries were moving everywhere and the snow was coming down in big, chunky clumps. It died down and melted away soon after, but then picked up again at around 6pm last night – this time continuing until around 10 (when I snapped these pics on my phone).

Sadly all the snow was gone again this morning, but they’re predicting more for Friday (when we’re scheduled to leave from JFK to go to Sweden!). Now the question is…if it’s snowing in New York, is asking for a White Christmas in Sweden too much?

Feeding the homeless

Some days my morning commute on the New York subway really sets the tone for my day ahead. Today was one of those.

I took the first train down to 59th Street and got off to switch trains. The platform was packed and there was a 5-minute wait before the next train rolled in. I was listening to my ipod while I waited and then something caught my eye…

Let’s call him Oscar (he seems like an Oscar to me)…A homeless man with a certain panache – Oscar’s thick-rimmed glasses are taped together over the bridge of his nose and over one ear. He wears a big, dirty coat and a dirty beanie. He doesn’t look that different from all the other ‘bums’ you see on the streets of New York, but what makes him different is the fact that he speaks to himself constantly – and in a very posh old English accent! The first time I spotted him on the train he was sleeping. When he woke up he started speaking to himself, “Now I’m going to get up, then I’m going to pick up my bag, then I’m going to put my left foot in front of my right foot, then I’m going to walk to the door of the train and wait for it to open, then I’m going to step onto the platform, and then I’m going to…”. This continued as he did all the actions he was loudly describing and as he got off the train I had an inside giggle about the people we share this crazy city with.

So when I spotted Oscar this morning on the platform, I kept my eye on him. This time he was scratching through one of the large black rubbish bins, coffee cups and wrappers flying everywhere. I turned my ipod down just in time to hear the conversation between Oscar and a large man who had walked up to him and put his hand upon Oscar’s shoulder:

Big Guy: Brother, you don’t need to scratch in the rubbish for food – I have food for you.
Oscar: I AM LOOKING FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES, FOOL! I HAVE NO INTEREST IN YOUR FOOD!
Big Guy: Okay, brother. God bless you.

Needless to say, when Big guy started his speech on the train, praising the Lord and asking for money to support his cause, I donated $1 to his cause. I know he TRIES to feed the homeless!

New York Snow…pt 1

I was invited to a Christmas party in Brooklyn last night and, in true Luis and Matthew style, the party was perfect – from the crackling fireplace dvd that played on TV, to the perfectly decorated Christmas tree and an entire bathroom ceiling covered in shiny foil balloons – it was straight out of a decor book.

We had a great dinner compiled of all kinds of snacky cheeses, cold cuts and delicious empananas, and then the Magnolia Bakery desserts came out, followed by a rum-cranberry-sugar-cinnamon concoction that had me feeling warm, cozy and slightly buzzed! Delicious.

Of course it was then time for board games, which led to tears-running-down-your-face laughter and the only thing that could have made for a better evening, was snow. And would you believe it – there it was. Big, soft snowflakes came down in big gusts, covering everything with its white beauty. Unfortunately it had all melted again (and was replaced by soggy rain) by the time we left at around 2 am, but that moment, with the snow coming down, friends gathering around the tree and laughter, was just so picture perfect.

I love the silly season!

A crackling fireplace…on TV

Ski bunny?

This past weekend we celebrated our first real American Thanksgiving (after escaping to London to visit Martin & Caroline last year this time) and John and I were lucky enough to get invited back to the most fabulous B&B in Vermont by the owners, Rebecca and Craig. Rebecca and I had gone for drinks in Manhattan shortly after our previous trip and over a glass of wine she asked what our plans for the holidays were. When I conceded that I was probably going to try cooking two turkey drumsticks for John and I, she invited us to join their family and friends for some real American-style celebrating…in the snow!

John and I rented a car and on Wednesday at 2pm we hit the road (along with the rest of the millions of Manhattanites who were leaving the city for some family time) and traveled the 500km’s back to Vermont. Now I should preface this by saying that John had made me buy some serious skiing boots the week before and that we were geared up for some turkey-eating as well as some serious snow action.

Vermont did not disappoint!
We arrived on Wednesday evening and there had been some snow on the ground from earlier in the week and we hurried indoors to the fire and some red wine. On Thursday morning when we woke up the air was filled with these huge snow flakes – pure magic! We spent the entire day on Thursday sitting around in our PJs and mostly watched Rebecca and Chet work their magic with the 24lb (That’s about 12kgs!) turkey – baking it for over 7 hours, basting it ever so often and producing the juiciest, brown bird I’d ever seen. Delicious! At around 4 the guests arrived and I prepared a traditional South African Jan Ellis pudding and warm custard for dessert. Rule number one of Thanksgiving…Kilojoules don’t count.

On Friday it was day one of skiing. Now you’ll remember from our last experience in February…I’m a super intrepid skier. Nothing much has changed since then! Dressed in our winter warms, John and I headed out to Killington, one of the larger ski resorts on the East Coast. We headed for the baby bunny slopes where I managed to not wipe-out completely all of the time and then at around 12pm I joined an instructor for a one-on-one 3hour lesson to recapture the basics. Not half bad, I thought.

We were back for more on Saturday (despite the super sore leg muscles) and I figured that instead of doing another training session, I’d rather just practice what I’d learnt the day before. The baby slopes and I got better acquainted and after lunch John and I decided that it was time for one step up…a GREEN slope. John, being the ever-patient wonderful man that he is, accompanied me up the mountain and stayed with me all through the painful process down the mountain. Again, there were tears (I’m not proud to say!) and again a couple of wipe-outs and hard butt-landings, but all in all I was definitely better than I’d been before. When it got too much, John made me take off my skis and took me into the powdery snow area to make my first snow angel – it really looks like an angel, by the way – and then the skis had to go back on. Finally, on the last stretch of the run I got my mojo and managed to make it down the mountain with a last little dignity in tact. Barely.

After snow-ploughing my way down 90% of the mountain I have the sorest butt, thigh and calve muscles you can imagine. But I thought you’d enjoy the video – John’s take on me making my name A-R-S-E.

When we left Vermont last night to head back to the city we ended up having to drive in a snow storm of note. We spotted 23 cars that had slid off the road and three big trucks that had jack-knifed. Lucky for me I had a super rally driver in charge of our all-wheel-drive rental. That was some hairy driving!

A huge thank you to Rebecca and Craig and their fabulous Yorkie Theodore who were (again) the most gracious hosts any guests could dream of. If you ever contemplate a visit to Vermont, don’t even look at another place to stay.

Me? I’ll be around, licking my sore-muscle-wounds and bruised ego till the next time.